1) Open your Gmail page2) Hit the "settings" button in the top right of the screen (it's that cogwheel icon thingy)3) Choose "Compact" display density (the default is "comfortable" and it sucks)4) Then go back to that settings button and choose the "themes" option5) Choose "high contrast" option from that screen (the default is "light" and it sucks).6) Then on the same Themes screen, choose "Soft Gray"
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IKN's top tips for a better New Gmail page:
Once Gmail says the changes are done (only takes a second or two) click your inbox link again and you're now looking at a mail inbox page which still isn't as good as it was before, but at least it doesn't totally suck. The end.